A Puglian Lesson in La Dolce Vita

We arrived in Bari mid-morning Saturday and were promptly collected by Massimo for a secenic drive along the Adriatic coastline to the beautiful town of  San Vito where we stopped for a much needed espressino (in between an espresso and a cappucino) and some beautiful foccacia. Then on to our home for the week, Masseria Fumarola, an absolutely stunning property located just outside of Martina Franca in Puglia.  As sleep deprived as we all were after our flight, we were excited to get into the kitchen!  Massimo’s Mom, Francesca, had sent along a “care package” for our first meal – Pasta al Forno, along with some local wine.  We were in heaven, or so it seemed… After a quick visit to our rooms, we were off to explore Martina Franca and pick up the ingredients for our first cooking day.  We explored the town, walking into the night thorugh the old city and exploring the sights, sounds and smells of an Italian Saturday night.  We keep our energy up with espresso, pizza and, of course, lots of vino!  A wonderful kick-off to our week. 

The morning of our first day of cooking started with a beautiful, bountiful offering of corroneto’s (an italian croissant), cream tarts, cakes, fresh ricotta, ham, cheese and much more.  Filled to the brim with espresso and sugar, it was time to get started.  On the menu – Bruschetta with argula, fresh orecchiette with mushroom/tomato sauce, fresh, wild asparagus, frittata, cucumber and tomato salad, artisanal salami, fresh brined mozzerella knots,and a selection of grilled meats including: pork stuffed with cheese, fresh lamb, and bacon wrapped pork.  Donning our beautiful Masseria Fumarola aprons, we assembled in the well appointed stainless steel kitchen awaiting our assignments.  Massimo gathering us together and let us know that before we were to start cooking, we would be learning to make a a traditional, local pasta called orecchiette or “little ears”.  He had arranged for an expert from a local Pasificio (a pasta shop), Sietta, show us how to first make the dough and then to demonstrate the complicated technique of forming the ear shape that the pasta is named for.  Watching our instructor like paparazzi with camera’s in hand, we were amazed, her technique was flawless, using a knife she would cut, stretch, separate and flick all in a fluid, seemingly easy motion… so much like playing a musical instrument, she made it look easy…  not so easy for us.  Laughing, we all attempted the technique with variying degrees of success, Lee was quick to point out that the holes in her orecchiette were a modern addition – African ear piercings ;-)

Following the demonstration, Massimo, cool and in control put us each to work, washing, chopping, stirring, tending the fire.  The kitchen was an organized bee hive of activity.  Paola making the Ricotta Cake, Leslie and Lee making the frittata, Anne, Manuela and me washing, chopping and assembling the sauce for the pasta, the salads and the bruschetta, Enzo outside grilling the bread and the meat on the fragrant olive wood fire.  Within a couple of hours we had a feast prepared, our stomachs were coming to life, demanding that we sit and eat.  The food, so fresh and flavourful, looked more like art, however that didn’t stop us from digging in!  Even the family who own the Masseria sat and enjoyed our creations!  Proud and satisifed, the group of us finished our lunch around 4 pm and set out to explore our surroundings.  Walking the beautiful property, we enoyed the late afternoon sun strolling through knee deep grasses and climbing limestone fences all at the way back to the kitchen at the Masseria. 

As we entered the kitchen, the cook was preparing to make cream filled beignets, we watched, facinated as she combined the ingredients and proceeded to “cook” them in to a patachou dough.  Another impromptu lesson in that fabulous kitchen!  We waited, watched and anticipated the delicious results of the love and care our new teacher was putting into the dough and the cream.  Within an hour we were rewarded for our patience – warm, cream filled beignets and rich, strong espresso, we were enjoying le dolce vita!

After a short rest we set off to the to explore more of the Adriatic coastline with a visit to Poligano de Mare for, according to Massimo’s wife Marnee, the best gelato in all of Italy, quite a claim!  We drove through the hills, enjoying the hills and town and finally reaching the quaint little town, anticipating the gelato and perhaps some much needed retail therapy (there are 6 women here people!). 

Parking our mini bus, we strolled thorugh the filled streets, it looked as if we had arrived for a festival, however we were told it was simply a typical Sunday night, this is a social community and they all love their gelato!  Every where we looked were groups of familys, teens, or friends holding the telltale cone with broad smiles and hands waving excitedly animating their conversations.  It was a wonderful night by the sea.

So we now anticipate day 2 of our culinary adventure… stay tuned!

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Massimo Bruno

is a chef, culinary tour guide and a teacher. He learned to cook authentic homestyle Italian food in the kitchens of his mother, grandmother and aunt’s. There’s no pretense or ‘ball sheet’ at Massimo’s table, but there’s plenty of great food, a lot of passion, and maybe an opinion or two (or three or four).

CONTACT:
massimobruno@rogers.com
416-558-3360

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